Phra That Si Song Rak, where prayers for love are often fulfilled – But don’t wear red

     Singles who want to become half of a couple must try to get some lucky charms at Phra That Si Song Rak on the banks of the Man River, in Loei Province. It is a sacred and priceless stupa in Dan Sai District, built in  1560 during the Ayutthaya period. According to legend, it was built to witness the cooperation between the King of Ayutthaya (before modern Thailand) and King Chai Setthathirat of the Kingdom of Lan Xang (Laos). In that era, Burma was powerful and invaded various lands to expand the power of its two kings, so they saw that they should cooperate for stability, and they swore not to invade each other, so this shrine was built as a witness to the truth. This doesn’t sound like a love story, but the name means “Stupa of Love from Two Nations.” There is a ceremony to celebrate Phra That on the 15th day of the waxing moon of the sixth lunar month every year.

     One striking feature is the whitish color of the Phra That. A stone mandapa (similar to a porch) with a Buddha statue in the Naga Mudra position, to overcome obstacles, stands in front of the treasures. As for the Buddha image, it was made of bronze, with a lap width of 21 inches and a height of 30 inches. Luang Pho Kraisi is opened for worship on important occasions and gilded once a year, one day before the festival day when the crowds come to worship Phra That Si Song Rak.

     You mustn’t wear red or bring any red objects into the stupa if you’re planning on asking for love, because “red” is often associated with “blood,” which is the result of battle. This is an old superstition that has stuck around for a long time. My advice is that anyone who comes to ask for blessings from the relics and brings a “Phueng tree” (a bee tree), or “Dok Peng tree” (in Isaan dialect), will always be satisfied. However, parents should not bring their toddlers to the temple, and you should check with the relic guardians before conducting any rituals involving the relics.     The trip to Phra That Si Song Rak Temple won’t tax your travel skills too much. It is about 1 kilometer from Dan Sai District and 83 kilometers from the city of Loei. You can drive along Highway No. 203 and turn right at kilometer 66 onto Highway No. 2013 for another 15 kilometers. Upon reaching Dan Sai District, turn right onto Route 2113 for one more kilometer to reach the Phra That.